Back in Damascus with the lemon tree

All good things come to an end. So thank you Alissar and Roula for your beautiful hotel and your kindness http://www.almamlouka.com/

And finally thank you to Bashir driver and friend.

We loved your country and your people.

Palmyra - the jewel in the Syrian crown

The archaeological site of Palmyra was a trading link between the Roman empire and India and Pakistan. The site is located between Damascus and the Euphrates rivers, and was first occupied during paleolithic times, but is probably best known for its Roman occupation in the first century AD; and it was the site of the revolt of Queen Zenobia, between AD 268-270. Palmyra was at an oasis, and between the first century BC and 3rd century AD, it was a stopping point for caravans on the shortest route of the Silk Road between Mesopotamia and the Mediterranean.


Palmyra became of true importance only after Roman control was established (c.AD.30). Local tribes vied for control, which fell to the Septimii by the 3rd century AD. Odenathus, Septimius built Palmyra into a strong autonomous state that practically embraced the Eastern Empire, including Syria, NW Mesopotamia, and West Armenia. After his death his widow, Zenobia Queen of Palmyra briefly expanded the territory, but her ambition brought on an attack by Aurelian, who was victorious and partly destroyed the city. In decline, Palmyra was taken by the Arabs and sacked by Tamur. It fell into ruins, and even the ruins were forgotten until the 17th century. The great temple dedicated to Baal and other remains show the ancient splendor of Palmyra at its prime.

The Temple of Bel

Bel is identified by the Greeks as Zeus and as Jupiter by the Romans, and is lord and master of the universe, creator of the world and leader of the gods. He was originally a Babylonian god, and was often mentioned in a triad with the inferior Yarhibol, god of Sun, and god of the moon Aglibol.

The temple is set on an artificial mound that dates back to the 2nd millennium BC and it is almost sure that this site has always been the site of a shrine. This sanctuary is walled and has a courtyard in the center of it, and in the center of the courtyard the cella, which is the original place of worship.

Inside the cella are the altar where sacrifices were made and a sacred pool. There are two chambers; North and South, both have carved monolithic ceilings. The Northern one is exceptionally known for the seven planets surrounded by the 12 signs of the Zodiac carving, and a procession of camels and veiled women, and the god of Fertility Makkabel. The walls of the courtyard are 205 meters in length and are surrounded by Corinthian headed columns on the outside and porticos with a double row of columns along the inside wall except on the west side where there is one row.

There are three monumental gateways, of which the entry is through the west gate. These were modified by the Arabs in 1132 when the Arabs erected a bastion, and the temple was converted into a mosque. The base of a statue mentions the date 45 AD and the temple was originally dedicated during the reign of Tiberius in 32 AD.

Burial in Palmyra

Palmyra's burials are unique. Situated outside the city walls, they show the changes in burial practice over the city's history and reflect Palmyran beliefs in life after death.

The cemeteries of Palmyra are a unique and noticeable feature of the city. Lying outside the city walls, they consist of two different types of tomb. Tower Tombs are the most visible, appearing to stand guard over the city. The later, underground hypogeum burials are more discretely.

Many of these tombs date from the Hellenistic and Roman periods. Yet both types are more Semitic rather than classical, representing in their design and decor Palmyran beliefs in life after death.

The cemeteries of Palmyra encircle the city of Palmyra just outside the city walls. They consist of two main sites: the main necropolis to the south west of the city and the Valley of the Tombs to the West. Each cemetery is dominated by a particular type of burial.

The oldest types of burial at Palmyra were tower tombs. The most visually prominent types of burial in the city, tower tombs began as exclusively above ground structures. Later they evolved to include a single underground crypt. This laid the foundation for Palmyra’s final type of tomb, the underground hypogeum tomb which was completely hidden from view.

The earliest type of Palmyran burial, the multi story towers can be found in the Valley of the Tombs. Built of solid stone, they are square based and interred the dead above ground. They probably accommodated family groups.

More of Palmyra

The Norias of Hama

The Orontes River (Al Assi) was of great importance to the growth and development of Hama through history. Like all other rivers in the world, it played a part in the irrigation of the fields surrounding it.

The Norias of Hama, which are some of the oldest waterwheels in the world, were first built by the Byzantines, as a system of irrigation. The Orontes walls were too deep for water to be transferred directly from the river, so gigantic waterwheels were designed and built in order to raise water from the river and drop it into ducts and canals that lead to the fields waiting to be irrigated.

There are 17 surviving Norias along the Orontes, and most of the existing Norias were rebuilt after the Byzantines by the Ayyubids.

Today, most of the Norias, although not in practical use, can be seen turning at a slow droning pace, from restaurants and cafes on the riverside

The Copper Souk - Aleppo

Market shopping is excellent in Syria, but the experience in Aleppo's souks stands out, owing to its 14 kilometers of narrow, covered bazaars.

Unlike Damascus with its tall, corrugated iron ceilings, Aleppo's souks have lower brick ceilings that produce a pleasing tunnel effect. The souks open out to the old city at intervals through busy gateways that feel like rabbit holes. Visitors disappear into and resurface somewhere entirely different, laden down with spices, leather goods, fabric or fine metal crafts purchased on the way.